The first time he took us to Lake Hanabanilla, our taxi driver Ernesto negotiated us a great deal with a motorboat driver ($25 for the day) and we started off on the two-hour ride to the waterfall at the other end of the lake. After we’d explored the waterfalls and were on our way back down the lake, our boatman steered close to the limestone cliffs on the far side. Then, he cut the motor, stood up, and seemed to be searching the narrow, sun-baked ledges.
Finally, after a bit more ledge study, he said something about a “maja de Santa Maria”. At those words, Ernesto became electrified and started fumbling in his backpack. With an old camcorder in his stubby fingers, he stumbled up onto the prow of the motorboat, which was still bobbing around in its own wake.
While Ernesto was balancing on the prow, trying to video something, I asked my friend Julian what a “maja de Santa Maria” was. I couldn’t see anything. “A snake – a really big snake” was his answer. It turned out to be a Cuban boa (see note below).
Then I saw it. The snake was at least 6 – if not 8 – feet long. It had been lying, looped over itself, on a ledge a little above our heads, but with all the commotion of the motor and human voices, it had started to slowly unwind itself and slither along the ledge. Ernesto was by this time beside himself. “Please, Heather,” he begged, “can you help me with this camera?” In his excitement, he had forgotten how it worked. I examined the multitude of buttons and tiny symbols for a second, but had to admit I knew nothing about camcorders. “I’m really sorry, Ernesto,” I said, “but I haven’t the faintest idea”. He watched the reptile’s gliding getaway, grief-stricken. Then I remembered my Lumix and managed to catch the last seconds of slithering before this magnificent specimen disappeared from view.
Nature note: The Cuban boa measures from 2 to 4.5 meters in length. Its diet consists of birds, rodents, bats and lizards. Prey is initially seized by the snake with its teeth, and it then coils its body around the prey and squeezes, eventually causing suffocation. It can be found in moist and dry woodland in Cuba as well as rocky habitats.